La Chapelle et le petit coin

From the summit of Mont Saint-Clair you could see much of my previous description in the background; - such as the St. Louis lighthouse on the breakwater, Le Canal-Royal, Bateaux de Pêche Industrielle, Une partie des quais du Port de Commerce.

But for now, - we are visiting the Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Salette, and some other "petit coin" !

Next:- It's Time for Dinner on the Quai du Général Durand.

Sète : at sunset : au coucher du soleil

From Palavas-les-Flots, and with much excitement Marie lead us further south to Sète.
We were truly on a mission - and things were flying !
Well, the silver car was flying and so was I.

At Frontignan we crossed the canal which traverses the coastal lakes; one could say, "a waterway within a waterway".

Sète, which was called Cette until 1927, is the eastern starting point of the Canal du Midi (1681), to Toulouse and Bordeaux, and the end point of the Canal du Rhône.
The town is built on and around Mont St Clair and is situated on the south-east side of the Étang de Thau, an enclosed salt water lake brimming with oyster and mussel fields.
The Étang de Thau is the largest of a string of lakes that stretch along the Languedoc-Roussillon coast from the Rhône River to the foothills of the Pyrenees, bordering Spain and is the second largest lake in France.

Gliding along la Route de Balaruc we approached the canal one last time and crossed the tilting bridge leading to the old city with is gorgeous canals and the towering Mont St Clair in the background.

Partout, des hommes français portent des maillots de bain bleu foncé

Palavas changed it's name in 1928 after it was "floated" as the the main town in its local commune (in 1850).

Perhaps, a little play-on-words and perhaps dead true.
That's history for you.

Thus, as the crow flies, (or the fly crows), Palavas-les-Flots est une station balnéaire située à environ 6 km à vol d'oiseau au sud du centre de Montpellier, au bord du golfe du Lion et de la mer Méditerranée.

France is so varied and beautiful, yet everywhere one looks, men wear navy swimming trunks, or so it seems from my photos. Can't say I noticed at the time !

Très bientôt vous aurez faim. Pensez juste aux POISSONS !

La Société Nationale de Sauvetage en Mer

At the port township of Palavas-les-Flots, the girls sought ice-creams and I sought a job.

La Société Nationale de Sauvetage en Mer (SNSM) looked like a good place to start and all I had to do was re-sit my boat driver's licence, learn technical French fluently and remember the sun was in the southern hemisphere !!

Perhaps a bit more salt water was called for.

Il n'y avait aucune puanteur ici, - au contraire

Last year and at about this same time, Marie took some friends who were visiting Montpellier, on a bicycle tour around the beautiful coastal lagoons where we were currently exploring.

"We went to Palavas les Flots." Marie explained on her blog, "Palavas derives its name from "pue la vase" (stinks of silt). Of course, it does not stink any longer!"

Well, as far as I could smell, the whole of France was pretty damn splendid and I was yet to be bothered by a smell or two.

We would save that for the fish wharves at Sète a little later in the day.

L'intérieur de la Cathédrale

Here are some interior photos of the Cathédrale of Maguelone.

Unfortunately the roof was not open to the public on the day we visited, unlike the day Marie and her friends had been there.

On her post of Monday 24 Sept 2007, she said, "I participated in a "feminist" meeting (Citoyennes Maintenant) at the Cathédrale de Maguelonne, along the sea (and to tell the truth, close to a nude beach!). We were allowed on the roof of the cathedral. The view was fabulous."

We were having a ball in the South of France and we just felt so privileged to be escorted autour de la place by Marie.

Without further ado, our next stop was the port of Palavas-les-Flots and then Sète and Mont Saint-Clair.

Je le sais très très bien ! Suite

While the interior of the Cathédrale, tomorrow, was easier to photograph, the exterior was limited as the surrounding trees were so close.

But don't think this is near the end of the day, - the game had only just started.

There are bigger fishes to catch. The South of France really has something for everyone and you're quite likely to see 'everyone', right here.

Je le sais très très bien !

With one resolve satisfied, mais avec les cheveux encore humides, it was now time to investigate la Cathédrale and to re-live the experiences that Marie had enjoyed there, so many months ago.

Here, in the middle ages, it was "Occitan" that was spoken, (ou langue d’oc ), so you can see where the name of la région Languedoc-Roussillon has come from. Just read the sign above. Perhaps Marie will translate it for us; it's not really too difficult.

We spent a wonderful hour enjoying this lovely old Romanesque church - in the Southern-France warmth, that Marie and her fellow Montpelliérains had given us.

Maybe you can see from these photos and of course, from those to come, how France, bewitches and enchants the Aussie mind ?

Perhaps this will never be erased.

Je le sais très, très bien !

Oceans and Cathedrals : and Perfection

With eager thoughts of finally arriving on the Mediterranean shores of our beloved France, we were thrilled to see Marie arrive at the Kyriad Hotel early next morning.

So much planning had preceded our meeting and I had been worried that she may not have returned from the USA in time for our visit.

Marie had a twinkle in her eye which could only mean mischief.

We set out for the coast and the wonderful Monument historique, la Cathédrale Saint-Pierre at Maguelone.
I had been looking forward to this day for months after Marie's wonderful photos from its roof, on Montpellier Daily Photo.

Approaching our destination and winding through the coastal lakes beside the shoreline we came to the long and sunny beach at Palavas-les-Flots.

It was here that I first understood the twinkle in the eyes of a French girl !

Le nouveau Montpellier

L'esplanade de l'Europe (quartier Antigone) on the side of the River Lez is a huge amphitheatre of greenery constructed at the end of 70's.
It was a joy to walk in to the place and feel the same axes found in Paris and Versailles. One is instantly oriented.

The atmosphere was soothing and spacious, with lawns and paving set out carefully and harmoniously, leading down to the Avenue du Pirée and the Lez.

The modern architecture surrounding this verdant esplanade, was grandiose and sparkling and the numerous excellent restaurants and bars were tempting to any one whether tourist or local.

An early night was called for, after the drive from Millau.
Tomorrow we would be meeting Marie and who knew what mischief would lie ahead !

Marie, Moses and Montpellier (et Démosthène)

Marie's Montpellier had long held a distinct fascination for me with it's old city, it's 20th century architecture, expansive public spaces and of course it's Alstom Citadis trams. The joy of photo-blogging was soon to become the joy of meeting.

The river Lez from its headwaters to Antigone, and then to the sea had become a familiar, old friend through the lovely photos that Marie had so often shown us.

We had seen photos of the powerful and compact eleventh century Romanesque cathedral of Saint-Pierre de Maguelone and the beach and sand dunes extending a dozen kilometres from Palavas-les-Flots to Frontignan-Plage.

Arriving in Montpellier was akin to visiting an old friend after a prolonged absence.

One phone call to announce our arrival, a short walk to the Médiathèque Émile Zola, a quick chat to Michelangelo's Moses (Moïse, Moyses, משה, Moché) and our old friend Démosthène, the Greek Statesman and Orator, - and we were hungry.
Après une très longue attente, nous sommes arrivés, finalement à Montpellier!

MES EXCUSES À TOUS MES AMIS

Pendant les quatorze derniers jours, mon Internet Service Provider a détruit mon connexion d'Internet.
Il a été finalement restauré.

Je voudrais que vous sachiez que je vous offre tout, mes excuses plus sincères pour vous ignorer et pour être incapable de laisser des messages sur tous vos blogs.
Je prie que vous me pardonnerez et que vous m'aimerez un peu plus chaque jour.
Je suis désolé que vous croyiez que je vous avais tous abandonnés.
Vous êtes tous mes magnifiques amis et mon coeur est penaud.
Demain, je continuerai à vous montrer le plaisir que la France m'a donné.
Nous visiterons Montpellier et verrons la ville merveilleuse de Marie, et sa mer méditerranéenne douce et calmante.

Aujourd'hui, je vous montre Moïse qui se repose hors du côté la belle Médiathèque Centrale Emile Zola sur le boulevard de l'Aéroport International, à la quartier Antigone, Montpellier.

Je sais bien que c'est l'un des lieux préférés de Marie.

Usine de traitement des eaux usées de Millau

Wherever one travels in the world, an attraction that goes unnoticed is the local sewage treatment works.

With such a fragile environment to protect, the placid and clean River Tarn in Millau would not be fit for recreational and agricultural purposes without this white house nestled in the lovely river valley.

However, as of 2004, in the U.S, 850 billion gallons of raw sewage have been dumped into waterways every year. (Wiki Sara).


With the White House there, about to see a new changing of the guard, these French 'bassins utilisés dans la usine de traitement des eaux usées', hold a slightly greater fascination for me and have produced a better result in creating harmony and joy among those who depend on it.

La Maison Blanche de Millau may soon employ l'homme avec les cheveux blancs ?

La route vers Montpellier : Le Viaduc de Millau : 2

She is thinking to herself,

"I think I can see Montpellier beyond this bridge."

Tomorrow..mais avant qu'on parte de Millau, une petite surprise !

La route vers Montpellier : Le Viaduc de Millau : for Dive, my cobber

J'avais apprécié la ville merveilleuse de Brive-la-Gaillarde, mais le sud de la France chuchotait à moi dans des harmonies très douces.

Là, il ferait chaud. La mer méditerranéenne avait fait une réservation pour moi et mes pensées.
Afin d'être avec eux, j'ai dû le sentir autour de moi.
La mer est le berceau de l'âme et nous avons de telles pensées semblables.

Mais, avant qu'on puisse arriver dans la poitrine de l'inspiration, le Viaduc de Millau doit être accordé une priorité élevée.

Pour examiner cette belle 'passerelle', était l'une de mes raisons principales d'être en France.
Mon ami Dive, à Londres m'assassinerait si je devais la manquer.
Ainsi, je consacrerai ce blogpost à mon ami M. Dive.

Monsieur, celui-ci est pour vous.
Et je sais bien que vous pouvez lire ce texte.
Vous, mon ami avez la capacité de faire n'importe quoi.

Brive-la-Gaillarde : Département Corrèze : 3

Tomorrow; - Millau, and Sir Norman Foster's Viaduc.

Brive-la-Gaillarde Département Corrèze : 2

Here are three more.
And three more to follow.
These files are in high definition and take a long time to load.

Brive-la-Gaillarde : Corrèze

Limoges, in Haute-Vienne had been an unexpected joy.

The colourful parades of citizens, pleasant encounters with shopkeepers, electric trolly buses and spontaneous goings-on around the place; - these were the things one doesn't discover by studying books.
The day was far from closing and though we had thought to stay here overnight, Brive-la-Gaillarde was only 80 k away. And 80 k closer to Millau on the following day.

A quick dash, with the images of Google Earth replaying in my head and we had arrived.
I was amazed how unnecessary a GPS was in France.
Everything is just where you think, and the coffee shops le long de la route were always there to add some mayhem and joy, but never confusion !
We added that ourselves, and when we return we must retrace some of these steps, just to revisit old, new-found friends, especially les gendarmes.

Brive, in the Département Corrèze was quite a surprise.
Le Chopin Fin, where we stayed was excellent and many times funnier than Fawlty Towers.
Muriel et Florent were as funny as a fit, or two.
They were so obliging and so happy to speak their langue maternelle française in quite a new way. And they gave us the history of Brive with just no prompting.

It seems that Brive-la-Gaillarde was the headquarters of a clandestine information network and a base of the Armée Secrète during the war.
There was also a branch of the Mouvements Unis de la Résistance and they were proud to tell us of their pride, and where we could see monuments to substantiate these proud stories.
Brive-la-Gaillarde was the first city of Occupied France to liberate itself by its own means, on August 15, 1944.
For this, the city received the “Croix de guerre 1939-1945” military decoration. (Wikipedia)

A quick meal at the POST'CAFÉ, a few night shots, and the younger Brivistes had just noisily hit the streets.
Just like we used to do !

Limoges : suite :

As is the case with each town that one visits, the study is made about the town before one arrives, but on entering the 'centre commerciale' everything that you might expect, is blown away.

One can not foresee the liveliness the ambiance and the daily lives of the people.

The unexpected is always right there , right in front of your face.
Cities are people; and people do what you do, in your hometown.

Sometimes the bridegroom does not appear and sometimes the bus arrives and departs; empty.

Katherine Ross and Dustin Hoffman had no such problem in "The Graduate".

Je voudrais penser que cette nouvelle mariée a trouvé l'homme de ses rêves sur le bus suivant !

Limoges : profound, professional and proud

Limoges is an exemplary educational centre with its university and Marcel Pagnol College.
It is also the source of the world famous Limoges porcelain, so well known and desired throughout the world since the discovery at nearby Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche, of high grade kaolin in the mid 1700's.

For this reason the town is dubbed, " the capital of the arts of fire " - which also relates to its production of enamel and stained glass windows.

Here's a quotation I found:-

“The reason people find it so hard to be happy is that they always see the past better than it was, the present worse than it is, and the future less resolved than it will be”

(Marcel Pagnol, 1895-1974, - French Writer, Producer and Film Director, and former member of the Académie Française, after whom is named Limoge's prestigious Lycée Professionnel Marcel Pagnol.)

Perhaps that's why "les Limougeauds" appealed so much to me; (and that Limoges has one of the lowest crime rates in the country.)
Or was it because Sabine and Jean-Marc were only letting people like me into town ? - Probably !